I was just talking to someone about how I would never do this in a million years. Huge, storm waves combine my biggest fears heights and dark waters. Yeah I don’t like dark water, whatever. Can’t see what the fuck is going on. For all I know a shark is barreling down on my ass and I can’t see it. Not my thing. Combine that with a 100 foot wave and you have my worst fear. I would poop so fast. I think even if it was a virtual hundred foot wave I still might poop.
This dude doesn’t give two shits that his partner almost died either: “Maya almost died. For me, it was a big adrenaline moment to get back out there after what happened”. Great for you! Glad the near death of your friend was the adrenaline rush you needed to go out there and catch the 100ft wave. Generally, when my friends need to be resuscitated due to the activity we were both participating in, I try to stop doing that activity as quickly as possible. Some people are just way cooler than me I guess. Didn’t think it was possible.
P.S. Who picked the music for that video of him riding a monster wave? Just some mellow smooth jazz saxophone to go along with your giant wave. Only thing worse would have been polka music.